How to not look ORANGE – in Fake Tan!

In any fake tan application, when your natural skin depth base is either dark or light, this will indicate the depth or brightness of your fake tanning product. Too often we see a level 10 “Extra White Bright Base” wanting to fake tan to a level 2 “Darkest Brown base” and hoping that the fake tan will not go orange in tone. 

The solution for dramatically reducing any orange undertones within your fake tanning product is to choose a depth closer to your own skin colour – 1 to 4 shades.  Not only will the fake tan appear more natural-looking, but will reduce undesirable orange tones that invariably come from the DHA. 

Pigment is what determines a person’s skin colour. There are two types of pigments; Granular and Diffuse. Granular pigments are dark whereas Diffuse pigments are light.  The more Granular pigments within the skin, the darker the skin. The more Diffuse pigments, the lighter & brighter the skin.  We are all created (exception albinos) with both Granular and Diffuse pigments in various amounts.

Our skin has 3 main layers: Dermis (meaning hidden skin), the Epidermis (meaning above) and the Hypodermis (foundation). To keep this blog educational and not a ‘War & Peace’ novel, we will investigate briefly the Epidermis as it is the part that is connected to fake tanning.

There are 5 layers for the Epidermis and each layer (stratum) has their own function and purpose. Starting from the outermost layer:

• Stratum Corneum- Horny,
• Stratum Lucidum,
• Stratum Granulosum- Granular,
• Stratum Spinosum- Spiny and
• Stratum and Stratum Basale which is the deepest layer before the dermis.

When we naturally tan from ultraviolet sunlight, our epidermis absorbs this light and penetrates to the deepest layer, Stratum Basale or Basal layer. The pigment (melatonin) held within this epidermis Basal layer produce melanocytes, which in turn create depth within the pigments. Whereas, when we apply fake tan on the skin, the tan only adheres to the Corneum Horny layer, giving temporary results. This method of fake tanning has been endorsed worldwide as a safe and effective temporary tanning result.

Underlying pigment chart – The chart indicates pigment only, not tone.

The man active ingredient within all fake tanning products is known as Dihydroxyacetone DHA.  DHA is made from natural sugar cane and when extracted, the cane is golden in appearance. Not until the cane sugar is ‘refined’, then the sugars extracted within the cane, turns white.  When DHA is applied to the skin, it is only capable of adhering to the outer most layer, known as the Horny Layer and does not penetrate any deeper.

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